Micro tuning software

Added option to assign ignition output for any cylinder to any output. Ignition output cylinder x. Option to enable the boost controller wastegate back pressure control by a digital input Boost Control Enable switch. Launch control start RPM can be set by activating the launch control switch enable stage digital input. Faster acceleration enrichment detection to give better acceleration enrichment was added in previous 1.

A representation of how far off the VE-table is. Fixed a bug that caused incorrect temperature values when selecting predefined temp sensors in US imperial mode. Fixed a bug causing the injector duty and staging to be incorrectly calculated on Wankel and 2-stroke engines. Fixed a bug where the AC Magnetic clutch output was always active with a reactivation delay of 0. Fixed a bug where disabled user outputs which had a digital input function enabled could trigger the digital input function.

Fixed a bug in Surface3D where the selected data values did not match the actual selection in some circumstances. Added the ability to activate a digital input function directly in the bluetooth settings, switches. New trigger: Single pulse per degrees. To trigger piggyback installations from a stock injector or coil. Fixed a bug where the error code 84 accidentally was triggered on some vehicles connected to the CAN-bus.

Fixed a bug where tachometer test output feature did not use the adjustment table if set to table. R keyboard shortcut is now back in whole system to erase all stored error codes from anywhere in MTune. Fixed a bug causing incorrect autotune operation if the operation was repeated on the same area. Fixed a bug where the incorrect idle duty was used during crankning when the After Start Duty was set to Table.

Fixed a bug where Surface 3D view not reloaded the view after a inverted view was requested by the right-click menu option. Fixed a nasty bug which we accidentally added in the last minutes before launching MTune 1.

Local autotune will now only affect the closest cell not the four surrounding ones as in earlier MTune versions. New RealTime Data value: Engine total time over limit resettable with a button in engine counters.

New RealTime Data value: Engine total time on launch resettable with a button in engine counters. Changed the minimum Cut above RPM value in the advanced warning system, to be able to use the warning system even on idle or engine startup. New setting to disable Power Management and Traction Control when activating the digital input function secondary rev-limiter can be used as a Burnout Limiter , setting available in the rev limit. Added an option to lock cells in tables.

Locked cells cant be changed by the autotuner or by key shortcuts. Fixed a bug where multiple cells was selected, typing x,x caused just one cell to change x. Fixed a bug where ignition output coil duty was not displayed correctly in RealTime Data, output states. New Rolling Launch function and the required digital input function Rolling launch control switch. New Tune selector, to be used in the whole system as a variable to change one or more settings at the same time.

Search in MTune RealTime values and stored log-files files from live-logger or internal logger. Fixed a bug where the user could load settings from the ECU after skipping a firmware update which resulted in a corrupt tune.

Nitrous control: Stages can be controlled by set conditions or digital inputs actual inputs or internal outputs with additional conditions. You can visit the Scala web site , browse thousands of microtuning files, download them for free, and simply drag and drop them into Ethno 2 to add them as user presets.

Scala files are simple text documents, so you can edit them to create your own unique scales. Skip to content. Video Home. Search Site. Advanced Search…. Closeup Photos: Video Interactive Tour. So knowing what sort of signal the module expects is very helpful, and this info can sometimes be found in the service manual, etc. Failing that, you can try is setting the dwell to 0. If the engine runs rough or dies, the spark output setting is likely correct since the coil doesn't have enough current to make a reasonable spark.

If the indicated and observed timing values aren't the same at these rpms, then either: the edge you are triggering from isn't constant with respect to crank position, OR you are triggering the module off the wrong edge of the out signal spark output setting is incorrect, causing the dwell to become part of the timing. The 'easiest' way to do all of this is on oscilloscope, but most people don't have one of those. You will want to get the ignition parameters set first, as soon as you get started.

Get the Engine Started and Idling You start, naturally enough, by getting your engine started. Be sure to set your base timing before starting your car if it has not been previously been set. Note that the prime pulse is NOT meant to provide starting fuel it is meant to clear any air that might have leaked into the fuel system while the engine was shut down. Supplying fuel for starting is what the cranking pulses are for as they are both rpm and temperature dependent, and thus much more likely to give the fuel you need.

Generally, keep the prime pulse as short as possible typically around 2. If you over-estimate the correct values, you WILL flood the engine. Those should get you 'in the ball park' for starting. Once you have the engine running, you can tune the cranking pulse widths with small changes, moving them up or down together, and check it over a few days worth of starts before deciding which direction to go next.

You move them up and down together, but not by the same amount. You want to keep the cold cranking pulse width about 3 to 5 times the hot cranking pulse width.

Then you might start with a cold cranking PW of So you need to lean it out after making sure the engine hadn't flooded, in which case you would have to clean the plugs.

You might try reducing your cold cranking pulse width by 0. You don't want to also reduce you hot cranking pulse width by 0. You really want to reduce it by the proportional amount you reduced the cold pulse width, which would be 0. So you would reduce it to 3. This maintains a reasonable ratio between the pulse widths.

Conversely, if you had to richen the pulse widths, you might add 0. It is very easy to flood the engine, especially when cold, without realizing it, and this can confuse your start tuning quite a lot. So it's better to start with low pulse widths and work your way up in small steps lean cranking is much easier to recover from , As you get closer to optimal cranking pulse widths, you can adjust just one of the hot or cold pulse widths a bit to fix particular starting issues - for example, if you have hot start issues, warm the engine up fully ideally by driving, not idling then shut it off and adjust only the hot pulse width slightly to get the best starting.

You can do the same with cold start, but you can only do it on 'true' cold starts, which means that: a you have to wait for a cold day, and b you only get one test per day starting it and shutting it off right away still warms the combustion chamber, etc, and basing your tuning on that will throw you off.

If you try to datalog a cranking attempt, and the datalog is blank, or you are getting resets secL keeps dropping back to zero before reaching , then you likely need to disconnect the laptop while cranking. Most engines are quite sensitive to the cranking pulse widths, so you may need both pulse widths to be within about 0. Make sure you have power while cranking, otherwise you are starting on your prime pulse, and will go crazy trying to tune it, Keep the prime pulse short, less than 4.

Make sure you are not in flood clear mode while cranking, Datalog your starting attempts using TunerStudioMS , and study them carefully, you will learn a lot, Don't use EGO feedback to guide you on cranking pulse widths, it won't help you at all, and may confuse you a lot. Instead, use your subjective sense of how long it takes the engine to start at any temperature you are seeking to minimize this, obviously Afterstart Enrichment : If the engine tries to start, but dies right away, you need to adjust the after start enrichment.

VE Table : Adjust the values at the idle kPa and rpm to get it to idle. Do this after the engine has warmed up. As you do this, the engine rpm will rise, and you may have to adjust the throttle stop on the throttle body to lower the rpm back to the desired idle speed. Once the idle VE are tuned, you will have to retune the afterstart and warmup enrichments.

You need to check both of these conditions and fix which ever is not right. If you have been trying to start your engine for more than 15 to 20 minutes, you ought to investigate other sources of problems before continuing to try to start the engine.

If you have trouble with starting, either hot or cold starts or both :. You should recheck the TPS range each time you change the idle position or reassemble the throttle linkage. Make sure the injectors and fuel pump also have power while cranking and in run, of course.

Make sure that you have enough voltage during cranking to open the injectors. For cold starts, you have a cold engine and a cold battery that make high demands on the starting system. You can easily remove it from your shopping cart if you decide not to buy it.

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